Kimberly Kampers Basic Set up and Basic maintenace procedures

From 2004 we have supplied Operating Manuals at time of delivery. The current 2007 Manual is 60 pages.

Connection of the Camper

The Kimberley Camper Trailer is fitted with a Treg Off Road Swivel Hitch. The Camper in most formats has a downward ball weight of 105 to 125kg unladen and a mass of 790kg to 1100kg. Some customers when packed for the 'big trip' have a ball weight of 185kg and a gross of 1450kg. This will vary.

Your vehicle and tow bar must be capable of these requirements and the height of the tow bar tongue should be approx 520mm. Remove the ball, if in place, and replace with the clevis ("U" bracket) of the Treg hitch. This is supplied when you purchase your Kimberley Kamper.
It has a 22 dia threaded shaft, nut and spring washer. This should be tight and checked periodically when travelling.

When the trailer is connected, wind the jockey wheel completely up. Pull out the handle and locating pins, this will allow the jockey wheel to hinge up. There is a matching hole to accept a D clip, which will hold the jockey wheel up so as not to be hit when active four wheel driving. The handle of the jockey wheel will also be flat onto the chassis

Brakes

The brakes are either Electric Drum, hydraulic override disc or Electronic Hydraulic Disc brakes. There is a handbrak function for each brake typr. For those with the Hydraulic Over-ride type: When driving the braking lever on the front of the support housing should be away from the shaft to allow the trailer to move forward and apply braking to the trailer. When reversing this flap will be folded onto the shaft, this will impede the braking action and will allow reversing to take place.

The hand brake locking lever should be swung over to the rear when not in use and only clipped in; when the vehicle is detached and/or parked. The brakes have COMMODORE DISC PADS. Brake fluid can be used to top up the master cylinder to the indicated line. Maintenance of this should be 5000km - 10000km.

Electricals 12V/240V

The trailers are wired to industry standard and we occasionally use the reversing circuit No.2 for our charging wire (see our wiring details attached). Alternatively, there is an Andersen Plug and separate charge wire fitted. Remember that this charge connection is "live", meaning that the connection to the batteries is protected by a thermal overload breaker. The onboard battery type will vary: older models have a 75amp/hour deep cycle type (wet acid); newer models have 35Ah Exide AGM batteries.. This can be charged either by car charging circuit, solar panel or 240 volt through mains power or a generator system.

For lead/acid batteries, please check fluid levels on a periodic basis.

For AGM batteries, no maintenance is required BUT you have to keep these charged fully prior to storage. The new model battery chargers are intelligent multi-stage and can be left "on" and connected to the 240V power source when in storage.

It is recommended when not travelling to check the camper every two months to ensure the battery stays in good condition. This is called cycling the battery.

There are 15amp (blue) blade fuses in the front battery box on each circuit. Carry spares.

A 40amp circuit breaker is fitted to ensure protection against spikes or improper connection.

Bearings

The normal bearings used in the Camper are 2000kg rated, 50mm parallel bearings and 85mm dia seals. On some trailers to match the vehicles tyres and wheels, we use a special stub axle size and matching hub. In this case the FORD slimline bearings are used. The kit for these is on your parts list.

Your bearings are working in the outback under extreme conditions. Please check regularly (minimum 5000km and no more than 10000km). Clean and replace bearings with high quality marine grease or similar. Always inspect for dust infiltration. The grease will look brown if dust has infiltrated. If you are doubtful about the bearings, change them.

The Trailing Arm Brackets have two greasing points on each arm. Carry a grease gun and lubricate regularly; this will stop blockages occurring in the grease channels.

Water Tank

The water tank is either Polyethylene or Stainless Steel.

There is a locking water filler cap. When removed the cap and keys should be separate to avoid incorrect assembly. For water to be put into the tank there is a breather tube at the rear and center of the tank, this is located just in front of the spare wheel. The breather tube runs at the top of the tank and the 13mm overflow tube is sealed into the chassis rail. The excess water will flow out the air breather tube into the right hand chassis rail. A 13mm one way valve (check valve) is also installed at the end to prevent foreign bodies going back into the tank.

There is a drain cock on the bottom of the tank on the right hand side. We recommend draining when not in use.

If this gets blocked e.g. by a wasp's nest, the tank cannot fill and the hose filler will appear to be overflowing. If this happens clean the tube out and reseal into chassis, after testing the water is passing through the system.

Water Pumps

There are two water pumps on the Camper. One is a 12 Volt Sureflo self priming electric pump and the other is a manual pump (this is a Spanish variable speed cordless pump) on the "A" Frame. The 12 volt pump is controlled by a 12 volt switch. This should ALWAYS BE OFF when travelling. The pump is a self - priming pump and will always try to pump water. If the tank is empty turn this pump off otherwise it will continue to pump.

If there is a problem priming the pump use the manual pump to check if there is water in the tank and to also help prime (pump) water into the line.

If the pump occasionally cuts in with a BRRRRR sound and the pressure is bleeding off, ring your closest Kimberley Agent or the factory for advice.

Wheels and Tyres

These should be matched for interchangability where possible to the tow vehicle. Maintain the tyre pressure as per Manufacturers Standard and RTA requirements. The "better the tyre" the less chance of punctures. We suggest 35 psi (310 kpa).

The Kitchen and Stove

These are made of 304 stainless steel and should provide a lifetime of service. Both drawers are fitted with nylon sliders, which should not require lubrication. For cleaning of the stainless steel use abrasive compound e.g. Jiff & Green Scotchbrite and/or Domestos style anti-bacterial agent.

The seals are a compressive type, sealing pressure is applied by two zinc plated levers, turned to a locked or unlocked position by way of a special key. This key is used consistently by all Campers. We recommend fitting a rope and leaving it on the manual pump spout underneath the canvas pump protector bag on the front A frame for ease of access.

The Tent

The canvas, which is first grade silicon treated (DYNAPROOFED & Australian made) should be thoroughly wet and dried a number of times to allow for shrinkage of waterproofing of sewn seams.

Maintenance of canvas should be to the manufacturers recommendations. We would suggest only brushing wind blown dust off, hose any panels that get stains on and ensure the Camper is absolutely dry before packing away for storage of longer than 2 days.

Dust Seals - All are of air type installation. Ensure enough clamping pressure to scal but not too much to squash. When storing for a long time let all the clamps and locks off and may be put a small block between Camper lid and body to enable the seal to retain its resilience.

Gas

The gas system is to industry standard. The gas bottle should be kept in good condition and will require replacing at the necessary time as designated by local regulations.

The gas stove is a stainless steel Maxco or similar. This can be removed for cleaning by:-

1. Removing the top frame.
2. Removing the stainless steel cover plate (pull up).
3. Removing 2 stainless steel grill plates.
4. Removing the gas burner.
5. Undo two wing nuts and carefully lift the stove off the bolts.
6. If complete removal from Camper is required undo the gas nut holding the hose to the stove on the left hand side of the stove. Use two spanners to do this DO NOT attempt to remove hose from ¼" Annealed Copper Pipe. Tampering with this may cause breakage.

Boat Rack

If the boat rack option is fitted this is a summary of usage.

The boat rack has four gas struts fitted, each 1700mm of thrust with covers. It allows ease of set up whilst not using the boat during dry camps.

* The rack can be removed by removing the side clamps and allowing the rack to relax.
* It will raise without the boat or load on it about 300mm.
* You will be able to remove the two lynch pins and knock out the two retaining T head pins.
* Carefully pull the rack away from the right hand side of the Camper and disengage the 40mm right hand side spigots, hold the rack high so you don't get your fingers or thumbs caught.

Conversely if you are away and want to use the boat whilst camping.

* Remove the boat whilst the rack is locked down.
* Remove the boat from the trailer then unlatch the boat rack.
* Fasten the returning chain and attach to Camper by way of a stainless steel Karabiner.
* Pull the rack over, this will require a fair deal of effort and attach the chain to the rack by way of the second Karabiner.

The Campsite

The Camper can be set up whilst attached to the car or when detached. There are very few Oasis outback sites with perfectly level grassy sites. The Kimberley Camper Trailer is designed to set up anywhere quickly on rough ground so that you feel you are at your own Oasis!

Leveling

It is important to have your head level or slightly raised when sleeping. Look for a campsite that is flat or convex in shape. The rear floor of the Camper has 4 adjustable feet to assist in leveling. Sometimes to get the bed level, i.e. looking from the back of the Camper level right to left, you may want to dig a hole about 16"x8"x2" deep to drop the right hand wheel in. You will have to tow the Camper out and you may want to check for ground clearance when the rack or the floor support comes over. Use your shovel to make clearance for the frame. Adjust the 4 feet to level the floor.

Opening

When you are happy with this go to the front roof rack on the Camper pull out the right hand and left hand stainless steel spring locking bolts. These actually pull out and turn to the horizontal right or left and stay out. This is to allow the aluminum floor to go down onto the base and sit flat. You will re-engage these when the tent is fully deployed.

Undo the six overcentre catches on the side of the Camper. This rack is also used to deploy the tent. The rack has two gas struts for ease of operation (on early models there are no struts).

Move the rack through an arc of about 135 deg, you will then be able to stand at the side of the rack and by pulling down the tent will start to open. The roof is pivoted and is assisted by two gas struts that have piston rods and black rubber boots to protect them from damage. These struts will suppress the speed of opening and you MAY have to help by pulling the roof over to become your floor.

When this comes over push the lid down tight onto the frame and re-engage the stainless steel spring bolts into the frame. This makes the floor into one component.

The two side doors on the Camper should be folded around the back of the Camper and crossed over each other. The super fine mesh doors have matching Velcro tabs on the ends of the flaps. Connect these by pushing together when closing the Camper and pull apart when setting up.

Before walking inside to set the tent up turn the skirt of the tent over the body and this will waterproof, i.e. stop any water running between the steel body and the polyethylene liner.

Walk inside the Camper and face the rear wall, i.e. away from the bed, push the galvanised tent bow out after undoing the right hand and left hand T nuts. When the tent is tensioned and tight, do up the right hand and left hand nuts firmly.

The tent should be firm and the front panel over the bed should be taut, if not phone your dealer and he can assist and advise what adjustments may be necessary.

For an overnight stop this may be all you require, however, if you want to put the 2400mm wide awning on or the sun awning on you will need to attach this NOW.

When the tent is set up. Take the awning out of the storage bag and unfold it. The zip has a 1000mm piece of black webbing attached to the zip head; this should be to the rear of the awning. Have the two zips matched up. Put the zip head onto the zipper run this up and over the zip to the front of the Camper by holding the end of the black webbing strap and pulling, it will join the front roof awning to the large awning, forming the 'L' shaped awning described in our brochure.

The zip head goes right through to the front and there is a velcro patch to stop the zip running back.

Firm the velcro joints between these two awnings to minimize leaking from heavy rain.

The sun awning is an option that can be left attached to the Camper and packed away without removal, whereas the large standard awning should be removed prior to packing.

Place 7 tent poles into eyelets on awning, peg and rope down with ropes supplied. We recommend a minimum of 2 ropes and pegs at the corners and would see that a third rope at 45 degrees gives extra tension to the biggest awning available on any Camper in Australia.

If you have the accessory walls you can level the velcro around the large awning by using a tent pole as a gauge. The height of the wall is approximately 1935mm. The first time you do this have plenty of time, it may take 45 minutes the first time. Our experienced campers do this in about 35 minutes including awning set up.

Start from the back of the Camper and put the draft skirt on. There are 5 panels, they all velcro at the joints. Fastidious people take a bit longer. Hey you are on holidays; it doesn't have to be perfect!

There are 10 poles used with the walls and 4 spreader bars. See our attached sketch for their positions.

Packing Up

Everything in reverse. Unzip the awning and fold lengthways into 4, then fold up from the door end, the first fold is about 300mm wide and ends up about 400mm. We supply it in the bag, it will go back into the bag!

UNZIP both doors and put the doors around the back and velcro the mesh doors. NEVER ZIP THE DOORS UP.

Then walk inside. Put the vinyl sheet over the bedding. Bring the pillows and other bulky items to the foot of the bed (rear of the Camper). Put your carpet (if you have some) on to the cover sheet.

Sweep out the Camper floor.

* Undo the right hand and left hand T nuts and let the bow contract to the smallest height.
* Walk out and pull out the stainless steel spring bolts that engage the floor. Leave this at the horizontal.
* Walk to the front of the Camper.

This is how we pack up the Camper. Fold the skirt over the front and both sides. Pull the front corner bow down. Tuck in the canvas at the front and the sides. Pull down the next bow and tuck in the front and side again. At this point you can fold the side skirt over the edge and tuck it over the curved bend on the Camper. Lift your arm up and grab the rear bow, which you can now see through the opened doorway. Pull this down whilst tucking in the canvas at the side.

THIS NEXT STEP IS VERY VERY IMPORTANT

Look through the opened canvas doorway. The floor is now becoming the roof again and care is required at this point not to catch the canvas on top of the galvanised bracket that attached the three bows. Make sure the canvas is outside the Camper. Reach up and pull the lid down, so that the inside steel panel of the lid goes past 90 degrees.

The rear rack will be about level at this stage and will now be safe to tuck all the canvas behind the rubber seal, when happy with this push the rack over and let it go down on to the aluminum lid. Attach the front stainless steel spring bolts to make the lid and rack one piece.

Compress the aluminum down so that you can put the front catch on to the rack. Now go to the rear side overcentre catch, pull this down and then move to the front side catch and the front catch. These can be pulled down simultaneously.

Ensure all the canvas is tucked in behind the rubber dust seal, if any piece sticks out this will allow dust to infiltrate. Remember tight enough to seal, not too tight to squash the seal.

Before travelling close the kitchen and stove compartment and ensure the faces are clean to ensure sealing takes place. At this time please go to the rear tailgate, open and make sure the 12 volt master switch (top) and the pump switch (bottom) are off. Before packing the tent up the reading lights should be turned off and bent down and towards the front of the Camper.

Hook up to tow vehicle as per towing connection at the beginning procedure. Check all loads and hatches are secure and HAVE A GREAT DAY!!

Replacement Parts

SEALS 85mm O.D. 50mm I.D.

BEARINGS
N.S.K LM 67048 / 67010 OUTER
N.S.K 25580 / 25520 INNER

BRAKE PAD DB 1246

Electrical

The following table shows the pin wiring for the standard plugs used on the Kimberley Kamper.

No.	12 PIN	LARGE 7
1	Left Hand Indicator	Left Hand Indicator
2	Spare	6mm Live Active
3	Vehicle Earth	6mm Earth
4	Right Hand Indicator	Right Hand Indicator
5	Spare	Spare
6	Stop Lights	Stop Lights
7	Tail Lights	Tail Lights
8	Spare
9	6mm Active
10	6mm Earth
11	Spare
12	Spare

We recommend the 6mm live & earth wire, are run back to the vehicle socket directly from the battery. If connected to the main vehicle battery ensure that an ignition control solenoid is put into the circuit to disconnect the vehicle battery from the camper when the ignition is switched off.